Walking into Gift Horse on a Friday evening, you're immediately struck by the energy. The space buzzes with conversation, the clink of oyster shells, and the unmistakable sound of a restaurant that's hit its stride. This is chef Benjamin Sukle's latest venture, but it's chef Sky Haneul Kim who commands the kitchen, bringing a perspective that feels both fresh and deeply rooted in New England tradition.

The raw bar is where you should begin your journey. Gift Horse sources oysters from specific bays along Rhode Island's coastline, and the difference is palpable. Each oyster tells a story of its origin—the brininess of Narragansett Bay, the clean finish of Ninigret Pond. The servers know these oysters intimately and guide you through the selection with genuine enthusiasm. Pair them with an ice-cold martini that's all business—no frills, just perfectly balanced gin and vermouth.

But the magic truly happens when Kim's Korean influences enter the picture. The smoked fish dip arrives with puffed nori chips and preserved Calabrian peppers, a combination that shouldn't work on paper but sings on the palate. The smokiness of the fish plays against the umami of the nori, while the peppers add just enough heat to keep things interesting.

The buttered and smoked scallop roll is a revelation. Imagine a New England lobster roll, but elevated—tender scallops bathed in brown butter, tucked into a pillowy bun with cilantro mayo. It's rich without being heavy, indulgent yet refined. This is the dish that exemplifies what Gift Horse does best: honoring New England's seafood traditions while fearlessly incorporating global flavors.

Don't skip the fried pajeon, a Korean pancake loaded with mussels, squid, scallion, and kimchi. It arrives at the table golden and crispy, the kind of dish that makes you pause mid-conversation. The seafood is impeccably fresh—no surprise given Rhode Island's waters—and the kimchi adds a funky, fermented complexity that cuts through the richness.

The wine list deserves special mention. It's thoughtfully curated, leaning toward natural wines and interesting producers that complement the food without overshadowing it. The staff is happy to guide you toward something unexpected, and their recommendations rarely miss.

Gift Horse isn't trying to be a temple of fine dining, and that's precisely why it succeeds. It's a place where you can dress up or dress down, where you can make it a quick stop at the bar or settle in for a full evening. The food is serious, but the atmosphere never takes itself too seriously. In a state that takes its seafood very seriously, Gift Horse has found a way to honor tradition while pushing it forward—and Rhode Island is all the better for it.